Eau de Parfum

The initial idea for Corpalium was to work around the iris pallida — starting from roots harvested several years ago by Marlou’s own Briac Frocrain, which give off a particularly carnal scent. Frocrain wanted to focus on the iris’ earthy aspect that quickly moves to a leathery animality rather than pushing it toward floral.

First mixes were made with ambrette and fenugreek. Assembling these three very dry elements formed a coherent block that brought the iris toward nuts and hay. Supported by castoreum and carrot seed, Corpalium leans into the equestrian universe with notes of dung and tobacco, fermented materials that bring relief and a certain acidity. Perfumer Stéphanie Bakouche entered the frame bringing something sharper to the roundness of the initial assemblage. Her addition of Texas cedar to the formula brought a certain transparency and complexity to Corpalium’s earthy side while materials like angelica attenuate the composition with a contrapuntal freshness.

NOTES

iris root
carrot seed
straw
dried leaves
fenugreek
nuts
angelica
tobacco
texas cedar
gaiac wood
dung
ambrette
leather
castoreum

NOSE — Briac Frocrain & Stéphanie Bakouche

France, 2022

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